A Palatial Family Winter Escape to the Kempinski Palace Engelberg

There are hotels you visit, and hotels you feel gently held by—where even the snow seems to fall with more grace. Kempinski Palace Engelberg is one of them.

A quiet, five-star jewel in the heart of the Swiss Alps, it doesn’t shout its luxury credentials. It whispers them, calmly, elegantly, in a way that invites you to breathe deeper.

For our family of three, this was more than a winter holiday. It was a recalibration, a special place that we could return to again and again.

Arriving in Engelberg: Where Stillness Begins

After a short flight from London, we arrived by train from Zurich, a route that winds through picturesque villages stitched together by fir trees and snow. Engelberg station is merely a few minutes walk from the hotel, and from the moment we entered the Belle Époque building, we knew we were somewhere rare.

The Kempinski Palace Engelberg is a luxury family hotel in Switzerland that understands balance: between grandeur and warmth, formality and ease, grown-up refinement and childlike wonder.

The welcome was intuitive. Our son was handed a tray of Swiss chocolates to select a favourite, and a child’s welcome pack with a discovery map, and a cute little stuffed beavers, the mascot of Kempinksi Engelberg and a soft robe folded just for him, was left in the room. While we were checked in we were offered warm alpine tea, and then our bags were already being whisked to our suite.

Our Junior Suite: Space, Design, and Mountain Light

We stayed in a spacious Junior Suite with panoramic views of the mountains. Designed in calming oak, warm neutrals, and tactile textures, the space invites you to slow down. The king-size bed was layered with feather duvets and stone-grey cashmere, while a writing desk faced the window—a perfect morning ritual spot.

The sitting area converted to a bed for our son,. I appreciated the family-friendly layout, rare in luxury alpine hotels, where the little details (organic bath products, soundproofed doors, underfloor heating) are executed with true intention.

Inside the spacious marble bathroom was a walk-in rainforest shower, Ferragamo toiletries, comfortable bathrobes, soft slippers and alongside this room was plenty of cupboard space for our bags and clothes.

We ended each evening with hot cocoa for him, tea for us, and the soft glow of Engelberg below. The perfect end to calm days out for me, and active days for the boys.

Kempinski Spa: Serenity at Altitude

Located on the top floor, the Kempinski Spa Engelberg is one of the most atmospheric we’ve encountered. A rooftop infinity pool overlooks the snow-covered mountains, framed by wraparound glass. Whether you visit at sunrise or dusk, the effect is cinematic.

I had a restorative massage using local alpine botanicals, while my husband tried the Kneipp circuit and sauna complex. The pool was heated to perfection and was the best way to end a day of skiing for our little one.

Kids Club & Evening Activities: Designed with Intention

The Kids Club at Kempinski Engelberg is beautifully integrated into the hotel, not hidden or noisy, but elegant and engaging. Neutral wood toys, nature crafts, books in four languages, and a mountain-themed play nook make it feel thoughtful rather than overstimulating, with spectacular views of the Alps.

In the evenings, children are invited to a supervised dinner and an wide range of activities in the accompanying ballroom that transitions to a kids club if parents are dining at The Cattani restaurant. Here children have access to a huge bouncy castle, movies, games and lots of live entertainment to make the most of their evenings, leaving them well fed, tired and ready for bed afterwards. The children’s menu for the Cattani kids club changes daily with a buffet menu and vast array of foods, desserts, and even ice cream, candy floss and popcorn.

Our son joined two evenings in a row, asking to return every evening, returning calm, well-fed, and ready for bed. The team’s care allowed us time for candlelit dinners—without guilt, without worry. They were amazing with the kids, remembering what they wanted to eat, drink and when they were ready for their snacks. We heard from a parent that this was the very reason they and their kids returned to the hotel, and we could totally understand why. It's rare to find a hotel that caters with this level or detail to allow parents a night of calm while the kids have an equal amount of fun.

Cattani Restaurant: Seasonal, Swiss, Elegant

Breakfasts at Cattani Restaurant are a slow and celebratory start to the day. A honeycomb station, local alpine cheeses, warm sourdough, organic egg dishes, and pressed juices felt indulgent yet rooted in place. There's also a little kids corners so children can select their own meals, if they choose. We were offered a combination of both buffet and a la carte and had some of the most delectable dishes we have ever eaten, from simple egg white omelettes made spectacularly to decadent french toast.

Dinners reflect the alpine terroir. my husband and I had sea bass with saffron beurre blanc, and my son savoured a leg of lamb dish he still mentions. The wine list showcases lesser-known Swiss producers, and the sommelier gently offered pairings based on our mood, not just the menu.

The service—quietly present, never intrusive—made each meal feel like a ritual.

Family Adventures in Engelberg: Slow, Scenic, Soulful

Engelberg is a place of gentle beauty and what I loved is that its so small and easy to navigate. The hotel runs a complimentary shuttle to these main locations and as it's situated in the town centre Here’s how we spent our slow, snow-dusted days:

• Mount Titlis Rotair: Mount Titlis offers a true winter wonderland for families, with its year-round snow and dramatic glacier views. While the summit promises thrilling adventures like the Ice Flyer and Cliff Walk, younger kids will love the Titlis Glacier Park—a snow play area near the mid-station with snow tubing, mini-sledding, and safe, supervised fun on the ice. It’s the perfect spot for little ones to enjoy the snow without needing skis. Hosting, the world’s first rotating cable car, it offers a breathtaking ride, whilst the Glacier Cave was magical, lit in glacial blue and the views from the suspension bridge were absolutely unforgettable. This is a year round venue for skiing due to the height of Titlis being 3200 meters high.

  
  

• Mount Brunni: This is Engelberg’s sunny, family-friendly mountain—perfect for kids and is situated above Klostematte, a mere 5 minutes from the hotel. Little ones love the heart-shaped Härzlisee lake, barefoot trail, and mountaintop playground, while easy hiking paths and the summer toboggan run keep everyone entertained in the fresh alpine air.

  
  

• Klostematte: Toboganning, ski lessons and snowboarding can be arranged by the concierge on the gentle Klostermatte slope nearby. Equipment was provided via the hotel. The laughter was huge from both my son and husband.Also the best place for first time skiing.

  
  

• Benedictine Monastery: A short walk from the hotel, this 12th-century monastery is still active. We explored the cheese cellar and bought two wheels of Klosterkäse, wrapped in wax and linen.

  
  

Departure: Gently Full

On our last morning, snow fell softly on the terrace as we lingered over one last breakfast. Our son, now fluent in hot chocolate preferences, hugged the concierge goodbye. My husband filmed one last slow pan of the view from our suite. And I sat by the window with tea, simply grateful.

Final Thoughts: A Place to Return To

Kempinski Palace Engelberg is more than a luxury hotel. It’s a living invitation to live slower, to notice more, to reconnect—with yourself, your family, and the world around you.

Whether you’re looking for a family hotel in the Swiss Alps, a spa retreat that welcomes children, or a winter holiday rooted in elegance and presence—this is the place. And for us, it will always be the beginning of something we hope to repeat.

If you are keen to book a stay, feel free to reach out to me here to help get the best rates with the hotel directly.

Much Love, Shanti

The Kensington Diary

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